"But it was death in paradise..." | Michelle Moore

Michelle Moore’s recent visit to El Salvador with Trocaire was a learning curve as the realities of climate change were illustrated as never before.El Salvador is the smallest country in Central America; in fact it is about the size of Munster. It has 300km of coastline with the Pacific Ocean and has tropical vegetation with only 2% of original forests remaining. Over the past two years it was affected by five extreme climate disasters: Tropical Storm Ida in 2009; Tropical Storms Agatha, Alex, and Matthew in 2010; and Tropical Depression 12E in 2011. Severe damage was done to homes, livestock, crop land and infrastructure. Scientists predict that the occurrence of natural disasters within the country will continue to increase as a result of climate change and extreme weather patterns.El Salvador is ranked as one of the most vulnerable countries in Latin America in terms of climate related disasters; close to 90% of its territory and 95% of its population are considered to be highly vulnerable. Water shortage is possibly the most significant socio-environmental problem the country faces; almost 95% of the country’s water resources are considered to be moderately-severely contaminated.I visited Octavio Ortiz, La Tirana, Los Ángeles, Los Clará, San Lucas and Los Conces. All had their unique enchantments, from their style of social activism, creative innovation for livelihoods to their strategic communal plans in tackling climate change. Their welcoming presentations varied but they all resonated optimism to Trócaire’s involvement and our presence.Close to the village of La Tirana, I got to go on a boat ride through the mangrove trees which blockade the village from the Pacific Ocean. It sounds magnificent right? And it was. However, it was heart-breaking too. I witnessed mangrove trees that are dead and dying. Due to rising sea levels, some have greyed while others show a clinging to life that is evident in a dash of greenery. We emerged from the mangrove ecosystem onto a beach. But it was death in paradise. Stumps and bare trees scattered the seafront. There was no green whatsoever. Just fragments of grey and black. It is important to remember that the mangroves protect the villages from tsunamis. It is unbearable to think what would happen if magnitude 7 earthquakes struck nearby.Not only did I get to partake in community meetings, I also got to interact with academics (in a conference setting) and discuss policies and legalisation with political and governmental officials. Initially I was unsure how a meeting would go with a politician but I’m pleased to say that an interaction with Lourdes Palacios, the President of the Legislative Assembly’s Commission on the Environment and Climate Change, uncovered a respectful perspective on combating climate change at a governmental level. This further emphasised the struggle for survival by the Salvadoran people in that Señora Palacios’s concern reflects an urgent need for environmental legalisation focused on the phenomenon of climate change.On our last day, my colleagues and I actively participated in a march, organised by Centro Salvadoreño de Technologia Apropiada (CESTA), through the streets of San Salvador. In solidarity with delegates from Honduras, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Panama as well as Salvadoran students, activists, academics, rural farmers, fisherfolk and members of women’s groups, we all showcased our concerns. There were many faces I recognised from the communities we visited earlier in the week and my thoughts turned to their journey to participate in this event.People had travelled for hours to be here. The procession was full of gusto, full of passion and full of human spirit. Colourful flags and banners illustrated each campaign but all have the mutual message of tackling climate change and this strengthened the bond of solidarity further. People from along the streets joined us, adding to the already hundreds-strong march as we progressed through market stalls past historical monuments, hospitals and courthouses to the civic square.And what awaited us there was a cultural festival where our congregation enjoyed speeches and music including the hypnotic blend of pipes and ukuleles from Venezuela.“¡El pueblo unido jamas será vencido!” “¡El pueblo unido jamas será vencido!” “¡El pueblo unido jamas será vencido!” This rhythmic chant rings in my ears and follows me back to Ireland - “People united will never be defeated!”