In Defence of Tofu
By Nathan Carey
The staple vegetarian option in most restaurants is usually some form of tofu dish. These can range from curries to stir-fry’s but the problem with many of these dishes is that they lack any strong flavour profiles that elevate the tasting experience. This is no surprise as tofu itself does not contain any predominant flavours, it is after all coagulated soy milk… not a lot to work with. This problem is even more prevalent in the home kitchen, as without prior instruction, it can be difficult to decipher what to do with this protein packed curd. By the end of this article you will be a tofu pro, as I walk through its history, science and practicality as well as highlighting why tofu is so much more than just a meat replacement.
In the beginning there was but a single soybean. Well, many soybeans, blended into a liquid, coagulated and separated for pressing but you get the gist. The origins of tofu are conflicting with some scholars suggesting it originated from a Han Dynasty prince while others hypothesise its invention was an accident involving a mixture of salt with a slurry of ground soybeans. Regardless of its exact origins, recordings of tofu use date back two thousand years and it has been a staple in diets worldwide ever since. Pressed bean curds are especially popular in the vegetarian and vegan diets due to its high protein content. While many Western recipes substitute meat with tofu, calling tofu solely a meat replacement is reductive as it has been used as its own independent ingredient in many culinary cultures for years and in East Asian cooking the use of tofu as a meat replacement is very uncommon with many Chinese tofu dishes also containing meat. Per 100g of pressed tofu there is roughly 20 grams of protein. Compared to other sources of protein like chicken (30g) and red meat (27g), tofu can hold its own and is a great option to fulfil your nutritional needs.
As I alluded to earlier, tofu is created in a similar fashion as most dairy cheeses. Swapping dairy milk for soy milk, the liquid is brought to a boil and a coagulant is added. This ingredient can be a number of different things depending on the type of tofu being made. Acid, salt and enzyme coagulants are all popular and each produce a unique style of tofu with varying firmness and sourness. The complex interactions of the coagulant with the soy milk allows for different pore sizes to form in the tofu matrix affecting its texture. Softer tofu such as silken tofu or ‘tofu pudding’ are allowed to curdle in the package they are sold in, while traditional firm tofu is strained of its excess liquid before packaging and pressed into shape. These varieties naturally lead to a host of unique cooking applications. Softer tofu has a much higher moisture content and lends itself well to recipes using dairy or eggs. This silken ingredient is also great in smoothies and puddings and its lack of strong flavouring means it can be sweetened or used in savoury dishes. Firmer tofu has less moisture content and lends itself well to frying, baking or crumbling into smaller pieces.
Preparing tofu in the kitchen can be puzzling to newcomers as extracting the most from it requires a few extra steps. For dishes where the tofu will be fried or baked, it is best to choose a firm variety. In order to maximise flavour, pressing and marinating the tofu is vital. Many recipes mention how tofu is like a blank sponge that can soak up and highlight other ingredients. Presses are available that use two pieces of plastic on either side of the block and are screwed together to condense and release excess water from the tofu. After pressing, strong flavours like chili, sesame and soy sauce can easily penetrate the tofu in a couple of hours and provide ample flavour to dishes. Softer tofu can be prepared in broths or sweetened with syrups for amazing desserts. Another popular method of preparation is to place the tofu in a freezer for a couple of hours before cooking. When tofu is brought down to low temperatures, any excess moisture that was present will freeze. The frozen ice crystals will puncture the cell walls within, allowing even more moisture to escape. This process therefore replaces the original water and protein bonds in the tofu matrix with protein-protein bonds. In short this means that the overall texture of the curd will be more elastic and springy. Frozen tofu is characterised by a slightly darker colour and a porous texture featuring large cavities. Other preparation methods include pickling or fermenting tofu in wet or dry brines. This practice causes the tofu to take on very strong odours like ripening cheeses but these forms are extremely popular at night markets and as lunch bar snacks. Fermenting tofu also adds the nutritional benefits of other fermented foods which are capable of diversifying the gut microbiome and are postulated to have wide ranging effects on our bodies. Soy itself has also been linked to protection against cardiovascular disease, obesity, diabetes and improvements in cognitive and immune function.
To put all of this tofu knowledge into practice, I’m going to share with you my favourite mapo tofu recipe. Mapo tofu is an authentic Chinese dish featuring cubed tofu and minced beef in a spicy sauce. The name originates from the dish's creator, with mapo translating to “old woman with weathered face”. This dish features Sichuan paste which can be hard to come by but is worth seeking out for its unique mouth numbing flavour. It also features fermented black beans which should be available in most Asian grocery stores. As I spoke about earlier, and as is traditional, this dish features both tofu and meat. The meat used here is beef but pork can be used as well. Ground chicken or turkey could even be subbed in for a leaner option. If you would like to enjoy this dish without meat altogether, the minced beef can be substituted with chopped mushrooms. A blend of rehydrated shiitake and chestnut mushrooms will provide a similar texture and great flavour. Be sure to chop them finely before adding.
Ingredients:
500g tofu (medium firm is best to hold its shape in the sauce)
3tsp sesame oil
100g minced beef
1tsp minced ginger
1tsp minced garlic
2tsp Sichuan chilli bean paste
2tsp fermented black beans chopped
1tsp chilli flakes
2tsp rice wine
400ml vegetable stock
2tbsp of corn starch mixed with some water to create a slurry
2 spring onions
Half tsp of ground Sichuan pepper
Method:
Place oil into a hot pan or wok and heat over medium. Add ginger and minced beef and fry until the beef browns.
Add garlic, fermented black beans, chilli flakes and Sichuan paste. Fry for 2 minutes until fragrant.
Cut tofu into cubes about 1inch across. Medium firm tofu will produce the best results here and it can be frozen beforehand to achieve a springier texture.
Add rice wine and stock into the pan and bring to a boil. Add tofu and cook for 5 minutes.
Reduce heat and add corn starch slurry to thicken. Make sure to stir well to completely combine.
Once the broth has become thicker add the ground Sichuan pepper and roughly chopped spring onions.
Remove from heat and stir well to ensure everything is combined. Serve on its own or alongside some rice.
Whether you're enjoying tofu as a numbingly spicy dinner dish, a silky smoothie or a fried snack, I hope you now appreciate this protein packed ingredient for its variety and endless applications in the kitchen, even if you’ve never tried it before.
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